Paris Insights - The Restaurant Review

Florina

posted November 18, 2024

47, boulevard de Port Royal

75013 Paris

Phone: 09.84.30.74.72

Metro Station: Les Gobelins (Line 7), Port Royal (RER B)

Type of cuisine: French

Days & hours of operation: Tues to Fri noon - 2:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m. Sat 7:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.

Credit card: Visa, Mastercard, American Express

Florina is located on boulevard de Port Royal just a few doors down from the intersection of rue Berthollet (5^th arrondissement) and rue de la Glacière (13^th arrondissement).  We entered with a reservation for lunch on Friday.

The restaurant is small, with about ten tables in the dining room and two tables on the sidewalk terrace.  Large windows, sheltered by a sky-blue awning, let in ample natural light.  Stepping inside, we viewed cream-colored walls and teal-colored wallpaper displaying an art deco design, an open kitchen, and butcher-block dining tables.  Framed paintings by Romanian artists adorned the walls.  The scene was set for comfortable, informal dining.

The menu
The restaurant offers a fixed-price menu at lunchtime:  two courses for 23€, and three courses for 28€. 

On the carte we saw four starters ranging in price from 12€ to 24€, three main courses from 26€ to 28€, and three desserts (one of which is a cheese plate) from 10€ to 12€.

We ordered à la carte.

The starter
I selected Velouté de poires et mousse chaude de moules au vin blanc as a starter.  I received a wide-brimmed shallow bowl containing thick velouté of pear covered with a froth made from puréed mussels.  A beige-colored soup, it tasted sweet because of the pear and slightly tangy because of the mussels.  I would never have thought that two ingredients as diverse as these could be combined into one dish, let alone in a soup, but it was uniquely savory and delicious!

My partner opted for Croquettes de poulet rôti, sauce de tomates et brunoise de légumes.  The waiter served a shallow bowl containing four perfectly fried chicken croquettes nestled atop a pool of thick tomato sauce and diced vegetables.  The interior of the croquettes, which were cooked crispy without a hint of grease, consisted of finely minced roasted chicken that was delightfully light and flavorful.  The tomato sauce almost rendered the finely diced zucchini invisible.  This was a tasty dish that was reminiscent of American pork and beans, but infinitely more satisfying.

The main course
I decided to order a fish dish for my main course and selected Filet de turbot.  The waiter brought a shallow bowl containing several slices of turbot resting in sliced stewed red, green, and yellow bell pepper and eggplant.  Topped with shoots of mustard and green pea, the fish was succulent and fork tender.  Three dollops of dense mushroom purée added earthy flavor to the dish.

My partner was delighted with her serving of Magret de canard, sauce à l’ail noir, petits legumes et trompettes de mort.  She received a generous slice of young duck breast cooked rosé.   It was served on top of puréed celery resting in a swirl of dark cooking juices and studded with grilled heirloom carrots. Mangetout (edible-podded peas) and finely chopped black trumpet mushrooms also accompanied the duck breast, which was quite tender and flavorful.

The bread
Cube-shaped chunks of fresh country bread were served alongside in a bowl.

The beverage
For the wine accompaniment, we asked the restaurant owner what he recommended for our meal.  We followed his advice and ordered Domeniile Panciu 2018 Feteasca Negra, a dry, dark, red-purple Romanian wine.  It expressed earthy flavors that went well with well with our entrées and my partner’s main course.

The dessert
For dessert, I opted for a slice of Brie, a soft cow’s milk cheese that was served with a mixed-green salad.  The Brie and its salad were generous portions that could have served as a meal in themselves.  The cheese was not runny, as many Bries are, but had a rather firm texture.  To eat it, I simply sliced off small portions and popped them into my mouth rather than trying to spread the cheese on bread.

My partner selected Financier aux pistaches, ganache au chocolat.  The waiter served a wide plate containing a round almond cake made with pistachios.  Topped with a generous dollop of rich, dense dark chocolate ganache, it was surrounded by dollops of chocolate- and vanilla-flavored whipped cream topped with edible flower petals.

The bill
The bill for two, including two glasses of wine, two starters, two main courses, and two desserts, came to 118.00€

The service
The service was friendly and helpful.  The restaurant owner recognized us when we entered and engaged us in conversation for several minutes at the beginning of our meal. 

The ambiance
The ambiance is pleasant and reposing.  While we dined, the music of Vaya Con Dios played over the sound system. 

The menu is in French.  English is spoken.

The restaurant manager told us that he can accommodate diners in wheelchairs.  However, there is a 8” high step at the entrance.  Access to the WC is not possible.

Travelers to Paris will enjoy dining in this handsome little restaurant, located off the beaten tourist circuit in the 13^th arrondissement.  We have eaten here on numerous occasions and delighted in the innovative and delicious food.