Paris Insights - The Restaurant Review

Fish – La Boissonnerie

posted September 16, 2024

69, rue de Seine

75006 Paris

Phone: 01.43.54.34.69

Metro Station: Mabillon (Line 10)

Type of cuisine: French

Days & hours of operation: Open every day from 12:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express

We have dined at Fish several times over the years and have never been disappointed with the quality of the food served here.  We entered with a reservation for lunch on a recent Saturday.

Apéritif
For the aperitif, we each ordered a glass of “Cuvée des Jean” champagne by Jean Josselin.  The wine had a rich golden color and a gentle fizz.  I found it to be quite dry, while my partner declared that it had a slight caramel flavor at the end.

The menu
There was no fixed-price lunchtime menu.  The carte displayed seven starters ranging in price from 10€ to 14€, six main courses (one vegetarian, two fish, one fowl, and two meats) from 22€ to 54€, three cheese plates from 11€ to 12€, and four desserts from 12€ to 14€.

The starter
For the starter, we both ordered Soupe de maïs au curry de Madras, maïs soufflés aux pimentón & sorbet brocciu.   We were each served a small bowl of chilled corn soup in which floated a scoop of ewe’s milk sorbet.  Flavored with curry, sprinkled with popcorn and Spanish paprika, and drizzled with deep green olive oil, the soup had a rich, creamy texture.  It was quite appetizing.

The main course
For the main course, Tranche de pastèque tiède, harissa, tapenade d’olive Taggiasche, feta, pignons de pin looked tempting.  I received a generous disc of warm watermelon measuring roughly 6” in diameter and 1” thick.  It was topped with crumbled feta cheese, sliced black olives, and dabs of chili pepper paste.  Tiny pine nuts and crumpled mint and flat parsley leaves were scattered about.  I was surprised by how these diverse ingredients combined into such a tantalizing dish. 

My partner chose Poitrine de cochon confite, polenta crémeuse au beurre fumé & parmesan, jus au pimentón.  The waitress presented a plate displaying two slices of tender and flavorful pork belly nestled against a large portion of creamy polenta.  The polenta tasted absolutely delicious.  A mixed-green salad was served alongside.

The bread
Delectable focaccia, an Italian flat bread, was served alongside in a breadbasket.  Served warm, fresh from the oven, it had a hint of olive oil flavor.

The beverage
My partner chose a glass of 2021 Côtes-du-Roussillon-Village “Les Millières” by Domaine Gardiés to accompany her meal.  A full-bodied red wine with a red-purple robe, it exuded an aroma of stewed red fruits.  Dry with medium tannins, it went perfectly well with the pork and polenta.

The dessert
For dessert, I ordered a cheese plate: Comté 18 mois, huile d’olive & noisettes.  I received a plate displaying six narrow batonnets of Comté cheese drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with broken, roasted hazelnuts.  The firm cheese had a slight white-fruit flavor, and it tasted particularly good with the hazelnuts.  I broke off bite-size morsels of cheese, topped them each with a fragment of roasted hazelnut, and enjoyed.

My partner opted for Figures de Solliès rôties, sablé Breton, glace à la feuille de figuier & vanille.  She received a shallow bowl containing two medium-sized roasted figs nestled against a mound of Chantilly cream.  A disk of shortbread topped with fig compote and a scoop of fig ice cream competed for space in the bowl.  The dessert was a pleasing display of colors, textures, and flavors.  It was a lovely finish to the meal!

The bill
The bill for two, including two glasses of champagne, one glass of wine, two starters, two main courses, and two desserts, came to 127€.

The service
We were served by a friendly bilingual (English and French) waitress.

The ambiance
The dining room is rather austere with bare-stone walls to the right (upon entrance), a wall of white tiles behind the counter to the left, and exposed beams, painted white, supporting the ceiling. The tile floor displays various geometric patterns.  Tulip-shaped glass lampshades hang from the ceiling to provide illumination.  Ample natural light enters through tall, wide windows at the entrance. 

While we ate, we heard R&B, disco, and pop music over the sound system.  Songs included:  “Oh, What a Night,” by the Four Seasons; “Everybody Dance,” by Chic; “Staying Alice,” by the Bee Gees; and “Money,” by the O’Jays.

The menu is in French and English.  The staff speaks English.

The waitresses told us that the restaurant can accommodate diners in wheelchairs.  Access to the WC, up a tortuous, narrow, steep stairway would be impossible.

Travelers to Paris who seek delicious, wonderfully innovative French cuisine will enjoy coming to Fish to dine.  Reservations are recommended.